Our food stores this morning were on empty, so we packed up our camping gear and headed to the train station with rumbling stomachs. We should have stopped for food on the way but train travel with bikes is frequently a disaster and we wanted to have plenty of time to sort the situation out. […]

A day off today was in order to that we could accomplish a couple of things. First, we had work to do. Second, we needed to figure out our next move. A brief look at the map this morning left us with the overwhelming reminder that Helsinki is a long way away! If we’re ever […]

Awaking late this morning, it occured to me before I even got up that I really didn’t feel very well. I feel heavy and stiff on my camping mat and my head feels dense and foggy. We begin making plans for visiting the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Meteora Monestaries, but in earnest I kind […]

Though the wind and the insects had completely silenced in the night, the gusty weather was waiting in the wings for morning. We woke up at 5:30 sharp, with the first signs of dawn, and packed up our camp, hoping to be on the road before the farm workers made it out to the fields. […]

With nowhere in particular to go, we slept late and took it easy this morning. Our ferry was scheduled to leave at 2:30 and so we took the morning to work, read, and sleep. Around noon, we decided to head to a nearby beach a few kilometers away. We made it to the end of […]

Once we’d eaten and gotten a little work done, we headed into town for the music festival, tonight being held right at the old port. We walked over as darkness fell and the town lit up.   We slid right in on the second row and listened to a half dozen performers, one in particular […]

After our lovely scooter powered day on Skiathos, we were excited to do a repeat here on Skopelos. We went from rental shop to rental shop, and were told over and over that it is “impossible” to rent a scooter in the EU with just a car license. Since we’d just done it yesterday I […]

Sometime late last night, we decided that the neighboring island of Skopelos was on our agenda, so we packed up our gear in preparation for a ferry departing today at an unknown time. The way things worked out required us to scramble a little bit if we wanted to cram in another swim, but the […]

We’d been busy with our scooter yesterday, unfortunately leaving us a pile of work undone that needed to be tackled today. We got up early and drove to the store for groceries before returning our ride and getting to work. The shopping trip was completely unremarkable except for the tiny kitten running from aisle to […]

This morning holds unknown. We’ve made no plans. Breakfast is slow, we ponder over a map of the island. After a while, we determine, we will rent a scooter and tour the far other side of the island where we’re told, the roads get too steep for even scooters, much less bikes. With all of […]

I wake up still carrying the stress of homelessness from last night. I don’t want to wake up, pack up all my stuff, and go do yet another bout of negotiating where we will sleep tonight. Unfortunately, I also have no desire to stay here, in the middle of town when there is a whole […]

Six AM and Ben and I are jamming stuff back into our panniers, ready to get going. Arms full of food, I squat down to fill our food bags. Halfway, I’m met with searing pain in my back. I recoil and the awkward movement unbalances me. In an instant I find myself flat on my […]