With the arrival of morning (you know, at 3 AM) came a persistent bout of hip pain. We’d clearly be staying put today. Ben had loads of work to get done anyway, and our campground has a decent internet connection and a lovely fjord view. I’d never been so glad to be sitting tight.   […]

With the weather as cold as it was yesterday, we let the morning settle a while before hitting the road. I left camp wearing a base layer, a jacket, and leg warmers. As we warmed up, we shed layers and then later, as we rolled through shade or downhill, we’d add some more. Temperature challenges […]

Weeks of research had left us with a bit of a puzzle. We didn’t have time to ride all the way to Norway, but land travel was seeming to be completely ridiculous. To get from Krakow, we’d need a long train or a car rental, a 19 hour ferry, and two seven hour train journeys. […]